Clock Facts
AN INTRODUCTION
Most clocks sit happily in our homes
doing the job they are supposed to do, which is to give a rough
approximation of the time and to look good. The truth is that the greater
percentage of them are certainly not happy and are being steadily ground
into dust by lack of maintenance. There are many misconceptions about
clocks and most of these are responsible for the wear that causes most of
them to wear out, one of the most obvious is the one about oiling the
clock.
All clocks need to be lubricated but a general spraying with
WD40 is just about the worst thing you can do to your clock. The correct
grade of clock oil for your particular clock is required but only on
specific parts of the movement and certainly not on the gears. Clock oil
does not solidify in the same way other oil does and too much oil attracts
dust which creates an abrasive mud, quickly wearing out the bearings.
Another misconception is about time between services. Different types of
clock require different service schedules but most clocks should not be
run more than a maximum of three or four years without some kind of
service. The general argument is that "I have had my clock for 35 years
and it has never seen the inside of a clock repairers workshop and it
still keeps good time." This of course may be true but over the 35 years
the adjustment has steadily been quickened up as the clock has very
gradually slowed. This happens as the bearing shafts cut into the clock
plates. The result of this is that when the clock eventually stops, it may
cost a great deal of money to repair rather than the nominal fee to clean
and service the movement.
With the correct care a clock will
run virtually for ever and if the clock is a family possession this can be
an important issue if the clock is to remain with your family.
THE FACTS
Clocks should only be oiled with the correct grade
of oil for that particular clock. Mineral oils can cause corrosive effects
on the clock plates and pitting on steel parts. Oil made from animal
derivatives such as fish or whale oil becomes solid after a short time in
use. Both these types of oil do not stay where they are put and seep down
the plates to parts of the clock they should not be.
Only correct clock oil has all the correct
properties for the job.
Spraying the movement of a clock with WD40 or some
other proprietary oil causes a build up of dirt which sticks to the oil
and wears out gears and bearings.
Too much of any oil can cause a multitude of
problems, oil can also have a counterproductive effect on reducing
friction due to 'drag' from the oil.
There are very few parts of a clock movement that
require oil. If you oil your own clock be sure to acquire advice about
correct oiling points.
The oil in most clocks should be changed about
once every two or three years.
Old oil solidifies and not only wears bearings but
'gels' and slows down the clock.
Most clocks that have been running more than ten
years without a service will require some repair to their bearings and
escape mechanism.
Clocks that have run for longer may have serious
wear. I was once presented with a clock which had apparently run 'happily'
for thirty five years but had eventually stopped. It was found that one of
the pivots had actually worn through the clock plate and the shaft had
fallen out.
Most clocks that have been stood for some time
'broken', only require a clean and service. In some cases they just
require setting up.
When a clock stops for whatever reason, tilting
the clock to restart it can seriously damage the escape wheel.
Leaving the pendulum in a clock when it is moved
will quite often bend the 'crutch' and cause the clock to go out of beat.
It can also damage the escape mechanism.
Most longcase clocks will not go once they have
been moved. This is not due to the clock being 'temperamental' or
'sensitive', but due to certain precautions not being followed.
Professional advice can prevent this.
Fusee movements are not as accurate as it is
assumed. Accuracy can be improved in most clocks by detailed adjustment of
the escape. This is also true of 'dead-beat' or regulator clocks, any
clock is only as accurate as the operation of it's escapement.
Very few 'named' clocks were actually made by the
named clockmaker. Most clocks were 'bought in' and then fitted into cases
on the premises of the so called clock maker. Even the most famous London
maker 'Tompion' bought in movements for his clocks.
The most important clock maker in the world, John
Harrison lived in Lincolnshire before moving to London. He built the first
accurate clock that would work at sea and therefore aid with longitude
navigation. He also built the first clock that did not need lubrication.
It was made of wood and it still runs today.
The old wives tale, 'oil your clock with a
feather' is completely the wrong advice and utter fiction. The legend
probably comes from the "Everything Within" type books that were popular
at the turn of the 20th century. It is odd that such a publication never
asked the advice of a clock maker or clock restorer. If they had they
would have been told without any doubt that "Clocks should be oiled with
Clock Oil and by a Clock Oiler."
With the
right care a clock can be made to run 'for ever' which is
important if the clock is a family item. |
