The position that you choose to site your clock is important. When the clock leaves the workshop it has usually been set to run on a level surface true to the horizontal. If you are to place the clock on a surface that is not 'true' then the clock will need adjustment. Longcase clocks need to be placed on a firm level floor against a wall, preferably where it will not be knocked or disturbed. The clock should also be secured to the wall. Wall clocks should be securely fixed to a straight wall on a strong anchor point, when the clock has been set up further securing screws should be added so that no movement can occur to the clock. Mantel clocks should be placed on a firm level surface in a position where it will not be disturbed. Remember to remove the pendulum bob before you move the clock as damage to the movement can be caused very easily.

SETTING UP

Once you have decided on the position it is time to set up the clock. The idea is to set the 'tick' so that it is even in both directions, this is called 'in beat'. When the intervals between the tick and the responding 'tock' are equal, the clock is in beat, if it is out of beat then adjustments need to be made. With the pendulum and bob fitted, carefully move the pendulum to one side until the 'tick' is heard. Make a mental note of where this happened and then move the pendulum in the opposite direction until another 'tick' is heard. Which ever direction that tick is furthest away from the vertical, is the direction in which the 'crutch' (the arm that powers the pendulum) needs to be adjusted. Before you adjust this, you need to establish how that particular crutch is adjusted. Many escape mechanisms have friction joints which allow and amount of movement, others you literally have to 'bend' the crutch. It is important not to force the crutch without first holding the top secure so that the escape pallets do not press into the teeth of the escape wheel. A great deal of damage can be caused in this way. If you are unsure of which type of crutch the clock has or you have doubts about adjustment, seek professional advice. It is important to realise that only slight adjustment should be made each time. It is worth trying the clock after each adjustment to see if the clock has improved. If the clock is difficult to set up as some short pendulum mantel clocks are, then it may be worth using some very thin packing under one side of the clock as a final adjustment.

Wall clocks can also be finely adjusted in this way by a slight tilt on the wall. Clocks with a circular movement as with most French clocks can be slightly twisted in their case.

REGULATING THE CLOCK

Finally, the clock may have to be regulated. Generally this is done by turning the rating nut below the pendulum or as with some American clocks by sliding the 'bob' along the pendulum. Unwinding the nut lengthens the pendulum which causes the clock to run slower, shortening speeds the clock up. These adjustment should be made a slight amount each time and the clock should be left to run for at least 12 hours before further adjustment is made. You should also consider that spring driven clocks with run slightly faster with a fully wound spring than with the spring wound down, the exception are clocks fitted with fusee mechanisms. Weight driven clocks remain constant throughout their whole running period.

REGULATING PROBLEMS

Some outside factors can cause a clock to run at a different rate on particular days, temperature and atmospheric pressure can effect the speed of a clock as can a change in humidity but most of these variants are so slight they tend to average themselves out over long periods. If your clock dramatically changes it's running rate it is more likely that wear or need of a service are to blame. Even using the wrong oil or too much oil can drastically slow down a clock.